Surat's diamonds set to steal Antwerp's dazzle

Glass Filled Ruby

The Editorial

India doing boom business in the field of gem & Jewellery sounds so good, but when last month I saw another good news for the UAE community. But a negative news for us. A 65 storied building exclusively for diamond trade was ­booked in one single day with screening at Dubai known as the Almas tower.

Such indications shows that the diamond trade is slowly shifting from India, already the damage is done to the colored stone industry which we see even Jaipur dealers shifting to Bangkok the hub of all the Colored stones trade. Most of the events and activities are silently being eased out. Seeing the careless attitude and lack of trade leadership, what to talk of political leadership, we had a better industrial leadership in the erstwhile rulers of Jaipur, Hyderabad etc, who took interest to promote and help art and local craft industry from all sources into their state to make it a hub of the gem & Jewellery product. Which we see lagging in today's Gem & Jewellery trade. Let it be Vat, customs duty, export, import or Gem & Jewellery industry, hardly there is any organization of national level which can promote, protect this profession, mere banking on the Gem & Jewellery export promotion council a Mumbai based organization only serves partially in export that too mainly diamond, Many of us do not. know that the Govt. policy is impressed by various strategies in the Udyog Bhavan. A poor gold smith, craftsman, small dealers, cutters, thousands of skilled workers interest is hardly taken notice by the Govt. both central & States.

TopThe govt. may do a great service by doing a proper home work for the local Indian and perhaps the NRI’s and foreign investors will be interested to come to India. The go vt. still has failed to remove the license raj, and the typical permit permission route. Now many sensible Indians are moving out of the country and doing trade, industry and business avoiding India and its famous systems, china, Bangkok, Sri Lanka, Dubai, Italy and any ideal location. Wl1at is the problem in India? What to talk of the SEEPZ, the Diamond bourse at kurla, the much promised gem parks in Nainital, NOIDA, Hyderabad and now Indore because our commerce minister from Indore. It is strange that the Gem & Jewellery industry works on shortsighted agenda and then we see it fail. But silently and strangely the Dragon (china) is rising and many Indians are flocking in china and newer areas. It is time we wake up our rulers.

Even when the Govt. has a import policy for Diamonds & Gems why are indians not importing Gems, secondly it should be mandatory for all airports in India to have customs facilities, strangely what has happened to the import facility in Hyderabad customs is not known. Our Govt. agencies have become regulators and not promoter, there has to be a proactive Govt. policy and not a Udyog Bhavan oriented policy.

There is a lull in the HPHT diamonds in the local markets and all through out the country. Though the diamond leader's are silent in the vulnerable position of the trade for the HPHT treated, HPHT synthetics, and the CVD Synthetics.  Diamond business is in the boom sales going to new heights, branded jewellery rapidly over taking traditional Jewellers, a strategic plan of DTC named" supplier by Choice". Jewellers in AP specially in Hyderabad should hold round table, seminar or a debate to know the future scenario of the gem & Jewellery trade in Hyderabad.

TopSurat's diamonds set to steal Antwerp's dazzle

Call it ironic. Diamond traders in Surat operate from the Hira Bourse in a building called the Belgium Tower, right next to Belgium Square. But most of them don't know, or probably don't care, that their city is set to overtake the Belgian city of Antwerp as the diamond processing centre of the world.

This is not surprising because it seems most of the 15,000 diamond merchants here would rather keep a dose watch on the finishing (cutting and polishing) of rough diamonds in their factories than read reports like the one ­about Surat 'stealing' Antwerp's diamonds in Flemish weekly Knack.

Jiurajbhai Surani, owner of JB Diamonds that exports. Rs 10,000 crore worth of polished diamonds, is one such trader. He spends most of his day staring at the three CCTVs across his desk. Though he insists it's for quality control, everyone knows he's just making sure the stones stay where they are supposed to.           

Antwerp has been steadily losing business to India. Ninety-two per cent of business (in carat terms) now comes to India; and Gujarat grabs 95 per cent of it. In real terms, the cutting/polishing business in India is worth Rs 50,000/ - crore of which Surat accounts for Rs 30,000 crore.

One reason for this surge in trade is that in Antwerp, more than 70 per cent of the trade is controlled by Indians who outsource cutting/polishing to India. In fact, an Indian owns Belgium's largest diamond company, Rosie Blue.

Surat's traders now have their eyes on a bigger pie. "India has to progress  from cutting/polishing, which accounts for $14 billion, to setting, designing and trading that accounts for $56 billion," says Nanu Vanani, president, Surat Diamond Association.

Satish Kumar G. Shah
(GG, USA) DGS - President

TopGlass Filled Ruby

In good old days Oiling (Joban) of gems had a limited effect on the enhancement of the gems i.e. concealing the f1aws in the gems, but it was vulnerable in the duration and color of oil, which changed with short time.

Since the modern known treatment of fracture filling first reported in 1982 as the Yehuda Treatment.

The Deccan Institute of Gem & Jewellery P. Ltd. has forwarded in early 2004 about the deceptive glass filled Ruby coming out from Thailand to Japan and the USA.

Various others methods and applications were conducted to enhance the beauty of the gems both either disclosed or undisclosed. But in Chantaburi the modem hub of colored stones some scientists in Thailand did extensive research in the enhancement of rubies, after heat treatment and diffusion treatment, and entering an era of you can call it Gem Repair or fracture filling, when they developed a glass compound suitable to repaired gems, initially the treatment personals were not hopeful of the result, but later the ruby came out excellent with appeal, and not much scope of concealing glass filling. Ultimately disclosing to the consumer about the treatment in the ruby and sell, which is I consider fair and ethical.

This natural ruby undergoing local in expensive treatment by of large numbers and sizes, initially the Americans & Japanese resisted these repaired rubies, because of non disclosure of the treatment. There are many companies who are producing some lead glass (repaired) rubies. There are chances of more unusual features as many companies have begun these treatments. The glass composition may vary in future as some producers are just mixing lead oxides powders, with different f1uxes, silica quartz, crushed glass on different rubies. Some companies had already been treating sapphire heated with beryllium technology. Many Thai scientists from different universities researched to develop a glass compound suitable to repair fissures in rubies. Whereas the Natural ruby with such looks are prohibitively expensive, hence an alternate for those who can afford and also be informed. The scarcity of natural ruby initially lead to heat, diffusion and now glass filling (Paw Mai) known locally as the new treatment, in rubies, flooding the market with good looking in expensive rubies. It is a multi step treatment involving simple heating using different lead rich compounds to fill the fissures and cavities of the stones.

TopThe gems are preformed warmed up to 900-1400C to burn the impurities in the fissures. The rubies are then mixed with some oxides powder (silica, lead with sodium, potassium etc) and heated. The Orange powder will turn into yellow orange glass after heating. The second type of formation has some metallic oxides optimizing the color in the rubies. This formula is in fact a mixture of much oxide powder is added carefully with an oil to cover the rubies, and then rubies are placed in the crucible and heated in a furnace. The powder will use into the glass, and there are possibilities of better fillers in the future.

There are many kinds of changes, it is vulnerable and requires special knowledge and security, precaution as the lead finnes can be toxic. The rubies are preformed and heated again using lead glass as such getting the rubies better results. They are finally cut and polished.

Identification: Apart from advanced tests it may be easy for now to identical under magnification, the filled areas show blue or orange flashes, the gems are filled with plate less and gas bubbles like both matching color-orange, some times the iron stains which are orangish become black and whitest after treatment. Controlled treatment may give even better, results, and may become difficult in future to identify these most sought gems. It is also felt it is ethical to sell the glass filled, provided the customer is disclosed about. These days glass filling in rubies has led to new avenues and many other gems are about to join this cosmetic presentations, in the trade there are reports that these rubies normally selling from Rs 100 to 1,000/ct in the sizes from 1 ct to 90 cts. There are reports that these are well flooded in India and China.

Radhika Shah
GG, GJ, AJA

 
  
    
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